Capacity — 150–200 mAh vs 150–175 mAh
Typical 357 capacity is 150–200 mAh. 303 is 150–175 mAh. Runtime only follows that gap inside the correct holder. Extra capacity in the wrong tray does not last longer — it often does not run at all.
357 vs 303
Both are SR44-family silver oxide cells (11.6 × 5.4 mm). 357 is typically the high-drain label; 303 is the low-drain counterpart on many watch charts.
Last verified Aug 25, 2026
Often interchangeable in watches; consult your movement manual for drain type.
Fit can look fine while chemistry, drain class, or temperature rating is still wrong. Use the stamp on the old cell, then the rows that differ in the spec table — not the fact that both cells are round.
They share 1.55 V and SilverOxide and 11.6 mm diameter, which is why 357 vs 303 looks interchangeable on a store shelf. Highlighted rows are the ones that change the purchase: capacity.
Read physical fit before capacity. Extra milliamp-hours only help when the holder is built for that cell. A “better” spec in the wrong tray is a mechanical or voltage mismatch, not an upgrade.
If you searched 303 vs 357, you are on the same comparison with the names reversed. The difference between 357 and 303 batteries is not the word “vs” — it is the specs that do not match after you ignore the similar photos.
Typical 357 capacity is 150–200 mAh. 303 is 150–175 mAh. Runtime only follows that gap inside the correct holder. Extra capacity in the wrong tray does not last longer — it often does not run at all.
Same size and silver oxide chemistry family
357 ≈ high-drain; 303 ≈ low-drain on many manufacturer charts
Chronographs and light modules may specify high-drain
Simple quartz movements often accept either
Coin and button codes are rulers, not brand slogans. The letters mark chemistry class. The digits encode size. 357 measures 11.6 × 5.4 mm; 303 measures 11.6 × 5.4 mm. Once you read the code that way, 303 vs 357 stops looking like a preference and starts looking like a fit check.
Sometimes. 357 may physically sit where 303 sat, but chemistry or drain class can still be wrong. Watches, meters, and charged circuits are where “it fits” is not enough.
If the door closes without force and the device asks for this chemistry, a quality 357 can work. If the datasheet named 303 for a reason — temperature, drain, or charge control — keep that code.
The same “sometimes” applies with the names reversed. Confirm chemistry and the movement or board chart, not just whether the can drops in.
A cheaper substitute that sags under load will look fine for a week and then make a watch run slow or a meter drift.
You do not need a full datasheet to settle 357 vs 303. You need the stamp, the tray, or a cheap pair of calipers. A store bin labeled only “button cell” or “3V lithium” will not do that work for you.
When in doubt, match the number on the movement chart. Size compatibility is excellent; drain labeling is the nuance.
Do not stack cells, grind a can, or use foil as a permanent spacer to fake 303 with 357. Read the stamp, then the spec table. If the door will not close without force, you have the wrong height or diameter.
Often yes. If the watch has unusual power features, prefer the exact drain type listed.
Yes. 357 vs 303 and 303 vs 357 are the same pair. Fit, voltage, and chemistry do not change when you flip the order.
Use this guide as a starting point, then confirm voltage, chemistry, and physical size with your device manual or the marking on the old cell.
Reviewed by PlainBattery Technical Review Desk on 2026-08-25. Checked: both model identities and dimensions, voltage and chemistry differences, physical fit, interchangeability conclusion and safety warnings.
Revision record: source citations and field-level review scope added September 11, 2026. See our sources and methodology and corrections policy.